- March 8, 2018 at 4:58 am #332102
Took some pics inside an undercover market we have here in Adelaide recently. Decided to go ‘auto' because without my tripod I couldn't get the long shutter speeds my camera was telling me I needed. The resulting pics are quite noisy due to the low light levels…maybe should have used the flash. Being mid-week, the market was a lot quieter than it gets on weekends and so I now have another item on my ‘to do' list…markets/tripod/weekend.
- This topic was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by Graham Hart.
- March 8, 2018 at 5:21 am #332106
Rob Wood (Admin)Keymaster
Considering the lighting conditions, the noise performance isn't too bad at all!
I especially like the top one.
- March 9, 2018 at 1:28 am #332173
Yeah but I was hoping for better. I think the flash may have helped a fair bit but I didn't want to attract attention to myself and make people aware of me. I'm definitely going back though because on weekends the place is jam packed with people and a flash going off will attract less attention I think. Can't decide if the tripod/longer shutter speeds will work or not in this environment because I don't want motion blur although it can't hurt to check it out and see I guess.
- March 8, 2018 at 2:36 pm #332145
Agreeing with @admin although I gues the noise would only really show its ugly face when you try to raise the shadows to extract more detail. What were the ISO settings in these cases?
- March 9, 2018 at 1:29 am #332174
Hi Tobie, the exif info is on Flickr but in order from the top pic down, ISO was 200, 1600, 400 and 800. There's a few more pics from this adventure on Flickr too.
- This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by Graham Hart.
- March 9, 2018 at 11:14 am #332214
Sorry mate, I missed the fact that they were flickr shots. The last one looks quite fine for ISO 800!
The secret with high ISO photography is of course to finaly frame the shot when you take it (no cropping afterwards) and to have your exposure spot-on (not increasing it in PP).
- March 8, 2018 at 4:32 pm #332154
Interesting shot Graham, all pretty good considering the lack of lighting.
- March 9, 2018 at 1:33 am #332176
Thanks Diane, its good to hear the reinforcement for what I thought were pretty much ordinary pics at best.
- March 9, 2018 at 10:36 pm #332266
I like all the shots Graham.
Instead of going ‘full auto', I might be tempted to do a couple test shots in full auto to figure out the approximate settings, then select ‘shutter speed' setting. I know in canon it's the Tv for Time Value (or there abouts). The Exposure of 1/50 you used in a couple of the shots is pretty slow and will ‘probably' induce camera movement. If possible use 1/80+ as it is slightly easier to use. Not sure if you hold your arms ‘tightly to your chest' when shooting, or steady arms against an object, or just being able to lean against a pole as these will help to alleviate the camera movement. I also find that slowly exhaling when clicking the shutter also helps.
One can also select ‘auto ISO' which helps get more light in; although the grain may increase as well. However, at ISO 1600 there usually isn't much grain (or at least compared to some of the stuff I shoot). You can also use Google software –> Dfine 2 which is pretty good at reducing grain (although the trade off my be some loss of sharpness).
- March 10, 2018 at 4:15 am #332277
Hi Bucweeet, I think what you suggest is a great idea and I had intended to do something like that ie; take some shots on full auto and then read the exif and switch to manual and play with similar settings. Unfortunately I forgot to do that as I was too busy looking for stuff to photograph while on a rushed lunch break.
I tried wherever possible to lock my arms in and minimise movement but at the end of the day I think longer shutter speeds were needed so next time I'll try Tv priority. I notice that the camera (on auto) had chosen quite different settings for each pic which made me wonder what system of priority it uses when measuring the light levels. I assume it sets one of the three parameters first and then adjust the others according to the exposure triangle relationship, but which one? Does it analyse each possible combination of ISO/Aperture/Shutter speed for a given light level and then decide which provides the least noise or the sharpest image? Interesting….
I'll check out Dfine 2 so thanks for the tip.
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