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Years ago, photographers would observe a scene through their viewfinder and turn the focusing ring slowly to bring the scene into focus. Much has changed since then. These days, all you have to do is point and shoot, the autofocus takes care of your focusing worries. But there are situations where Manual Focus becomes a safer bet. Here are 10 reasons why you should use manual focus.
1. Focusing in low light
In low light scenes, autofocus becomes sluggish and inaccurate. The camera faces difficulty in finding the subject to focus and the low levels of light don’t help. Manual focus is also the best bet when photographing the night sky and capturing light painting.
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2. Focusing on dull subjects
It’s not just during low light that the autofocus system in your camera faces difficulty. Even in bright light, it struggles to focus on subjects that lack contrast, thus necessitating the need for manual focus.
3. Pre-focusing at a point
When you are expecting a fast subject to pass a point, it’s always better to pre-focus at that point and wait for the action to occur, firing the shutter at the right moment. This way you don’t lose time in focusing, and gives you a better chance of getting a sharp shot. This comes in handy when you are capturing sports action, or photographing a butterfly that keeps returning to the same spot, perhaps.
4. Photographing through obstacles
When shooting through obstacles like wire meshes, glass, or bars of a cage, autofocus systems struggle to function as expected. So, when you are shooting through the window from inside your car, or photographing the animals in a cage in the zoo, MF is the way to go.
5. Capturing out-of-focus photographs
This one does not need explanation. Autofocus systems are designed to capture sharp images, but when your requirement is a shot where you intentionally want everything blurred, you have to choose manual focus.
6. Capturing close-ups
When shooting macros, even the slightest error in focusing can result in an image that lacks sharpness. In such situations, when the depth of field is very shallow, using autofocus can be problematic. You should use a tripod, and focus manually on the subject. For shooting at the closest distance from the lens, you may have to physically move the camera closer or further away from the subject.
7. Focusing with wide-angle lenses
When you are using a wide-angle lens, it may so happen that your subject is smaller than the AF point of your camera. In such situations, the camera may focus on the background and the subject is rendered blurry. With wide-angle lenses, it is easiest to focus manually by setting a narrow aperture like f/8 or f/11. Similarly, it’s best to use manual focus when your main subject is a tiny spot in front of a dominant background.
8. Shooting silently
You may have been in situations when you felt that the autofocus motor inside your camera was way too loud. In situations where you need silence, manual focus comes handy. Examples include shooting concerts, animals, or capturing portraits in a discreet manner.
9. Creating HDR images or panoramas
When you are using creative techniques to make HDR images or panoramas, it’s best to use manual focus. You don’t want a third of your panorama image to have foreground in focus whereas the other two-third of the image has the mountain in the background in focus! The same goes when creating an HDR image. You want all your photographs to have the same element in focus.
10. Understanding the scene
When shooting a scene that has many points of interest, manual focus presents you with an opportunity to interpret the scene in ways you never imagined. It helps you survey the scene by slowly turning the focus ring, and shows you different prospective photographs before you decide when to fire the shutter.
Shooting with manual focus is also a great way to practice your skills. Even if you end up getting only mediocre shots, you begin to understand your equipment better. Putting the constraint of manual focus also helps you think before each shot, ultimately helping you become a better photographer.