We photographers love a challenge. Whether it is contorting ourselves into strange positions to get a macro shot, or trying to soothe a screaming baby to get a shot for a proud new mum, we will nearly always find a way through. Today we are going to take a look at seven of the most challenging photographic scenarios and hopefully supply some times to help you keep calm and carry on shooting.
With portraiture, what you see is not always what you want to get. Even the very best portrait with the perfect model will often need some form of post-production to get it to pop. Today we are going to look at six classic post production techniques to get the most out of your portraits. These techniques are generally similar in Lightroom and Photoshop but in this article we shall concentrate on Lightroom. When using Photoshop it is best to use an adjustment layer or a duplicate layer to preserve the original.
Although originally developed as a image management tool, Adobe’s Lightroom has evolved into a powerful post production application. For many photographers, Lightroom provides all the tools required to make their images pop without ever having to resort to Photoshop. Lightroom’s tools are particularly suited to landscape and urban photographers who want to squeeze every last drop of quality from their images. Today we are going to look at three powerful tweaks that will make your outdoor images sing.
Unlike the world of the DSLR, the mirrorless ecosystem is not awash with what could be regarded as ultra wide angle lenses. One that does stand out is the Fuji XF 14mm f2.8. It was released originally as a companion to the Fuji X-Pro1 but will fit any of Fuji’s current interchangeable lens models including the XT1. These cameras use an APS-C sensor which means when we add in the crop factor, the 14mm gives an equivalent filed of view of 21mm. Of course, the major advantage of being designed for an APS-C sensor is that the size can remain more compact than an equivalent full frame version. Let’s see how this lens performs.
Cumbersome, heavy and unnecessary are words that often spring to mind when talking about tripods. All of these words are quite accurate and good excuses not to take a tripod with you. The fact is though, in many cases you can get much better image quality if your camera is tripod-mounted as opposed to handheld. Maybe the light has faded fast, you may have seen an amazing flower, perfect for a tripod locked macro or perhaps that scene in front of you is begging for a deep depth of field. These are all shots you may lose if you don’t have a tripod with you. Today, rather than espouse the benefits of tripods, we are going to look at ways of motivating yourself to take one more often.
This post follows on from my earlier article on my stock shoot in London. My next destination was Belgium and, in particular, Ghent and Bruges. Although well covered by stock photography, I still felt that it would be possible to get some marketable images from these locations, especially from Ghent, my first destination. Read on to know how my experience was, shooting stock photographs in these two lovely cities.
London in August, what could possibly go wrong? The weather, of course. I had planned a two week break to visit family and to shoot stock in my birth city, something I had never really done before. Generally, London in late August the weather is fairly benign and reliable, late August 2014 proved to be not quite so co-operative.
For a photographer brought up on steam powered film cameras, modern day DSLRs seem like science fiction to me. Fifteen years ago, camera functions were limited by the number dials, buttons and levers that could be built into the body. The modern digital camera discards that limitation by the inclusion of a menu system that add a huge range of enhancing features to it. Today we are going to take a brief look at some of the goodies that may be buried deep inside your cameras interface.
A newcomer to photography is often daunted by the different exposure modes a camera may offer. In fact, there are only four, real exposure modes and these are often represented by the word PASM. PASM stands for Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority and Manual and can by found (not always in that order) on the exposure mode dial on top of your camera. Today, rather than give you an in-depth break down of how each mode works, we are going to give you a brief, layman explanation of each mode and, more importantly, when to use it.
Let’s be honest, in the grand scheme of things, camera bags are pretty mundane objects Yet if we think about it a little more, we would realize how important they are to our everyday photography. We spend as much time with our camera bags as we do with our cameras themselves so it is important that we choose one that serves our needs. I have recently made the transition from a DSLR based system to an entirely mirrorless system. So I set off to look for an ideal mirrorless camera bag. The one that caught my attention was Lowepro’s Event Messenger 250.